How to Install Laminate Flooring

Having the right tools before starting ensures efficient installation and professional results. Most laminate installations require basic tools that many homeowners already own, plus a few specialty items specific to flooring work.

Essential Tools

• Tape measure: Accurate measurements are crucial for planning and cutting
• Pencil: For marking cut lines on planks
• Speed square: Ensures straight, perpendicular cuts
• Utility knife: Scoring underlayment and trimming
• Circular saw or miter saw: For cross-cutting planks to length
• Jigsaw: For cutting around obstacles like door frames and pipes
• Tapping block: Protects plank edges when joining
• Pull bar: Essential for installing final rows near walls
• Spacers: Maintains consistent 1/4" expansion gap around perimeter
• Safety glasses: Protect eyes during cutting
• Knee pads: Comfort for extended floor work

Materials

• Laminate flooring: Purchase 10% extra for cuts and waste; more for complex layouts
• Underlayment: Unless your laminate has pre-attached backing
• Tape: For seaming underlayment sections
• Transition strips: For doorways and meeting other flooring types
• Baseboards and quarter round: To cover expansion gaps at walls

Optional But Helpful

• Oscillating multi-tool: Makes undercutting door jambs easy
• Moisture meter: Verify subfloor moisture before installation
• Chalk line: For planning long, straight rows

Proper subfloor preparation is the foundation of successful laminate installation. Problems with the subfloor will telegraph through to the finished surface, causing squeaks, bouncing, and premature wear. Take time to prepare correctly before laying any flooring.

Clean the Subfloor

Remove all debris, dust, and residue from previous flooring. Vacuum thoroughly and sweep any remaining particles. Even small debris can create bumps that show through laminate. Scrape off any old adhesive, paint drips, or other protrusions.

Check for Flatness

Laminate requires a flat subfloor—variations of no more than 3/16" over 10 feet. Use a long straightedge or level to identify high and low spots:

• High spots: Sand down or grind concrete; plane wood subfloors
• Low spots: Fill with floor leveling compound; follow product cure times
• Major issues: Consider self-leveling compound for concrete or plywood patches for wood

Address Moisture

Moisture is laminate's enemy—the HDF core absorbs water and swells irreversibly. Test subfloor moisture before installation:

• Concrete: Use calcium chloride test or moisture meter; wait for new concrete to cure
• Wood: Verify moisture content below 12%; check for plumbing leaks
• Basements: Consider extra moisture protection in humid climates like Florida

Verify Structural Soundness

Walk the entire subfloor checking for:

• Squeaks (secure loose boards with screws)
• Soft or bouncy spots (may indicate subfloor damage or joist issues)
• Damaged areas (replace damaged sections before continuing)

Planning before installation ensures an attractive final result and minimizes waste. Poor planning leads to awkward narrow pieces, misaligned patterns, and more cuts than necessary.

Measure the Room

Measure room length and width, noting any alcoves, closets, or irregular shapes. Calculate square footage and verify against your flooring purchase. Account for the 10% waste factor for cuts.

Determine Starting Point

Most installations begin along the longest wall or the most visible wall (often opposite the main entrance). Consider:

• Running planks parallel to the main light source often looks best
• Running planks lengthwise down hallways creates visual flow
• Starting along a straight wall is easier than a crooked one

Calculate First and Last Row Widths

Avoid ending with a narrow strip along the opposite wall. Measure the room width and divide by plank width. If the last row would be less than half a plank, rip the first row narrower to balance both sides. Aim for similar widths at starting and ending walls.

Plan for Obstacles

Identify locations requiring special cuts:

• Door frames: Undercut jambs so laminate slides underneath
• Pipes: Plan drilling and split-plank technique
• Cabinets: Decide whether to install under or up to cabinet bases
• Transitions: Mark locations where laminate meets other flooring

Stagger Pattern

Plan joint placement to avoid visible patterns. Stagger end joints at least 6-12 inches between adjacent rows. Random staggering looks more natural than systematic patterns. Many installers start each row with the cut-off from the previous row if it's at least 8 inches long.

With preparation complete, you're ready to install. Follow this sequence for efficient, professional results.

Step 1: Acclimate the Flooring

Store laminate planks in the installation room for 48-72 hours. Open the boxes so planks can adjust to room temperature and humidity. This prevents expansion or contraction after installation.

Step 2: Install Underlayment

If your laminate doesn't have pre-attached underlayment:

• Roll out underlayment perpendicular to planned plank direction
• Butt edges together (don't overlap unless manufacturer specifies)
• Tape seams with underlayment tape
• Run underlayment up walls 1-2 inches (trim after flooring installation)

Step 3: Begin First Row

• Place spacers along starting wall (1/4" gap from wall)
• Lay first plank with tongue side toward the wall (cut off tongue if needed)
• Connect end joints of subsequent planks in first row
• Cut final plank in row to fit, leaving expansion gap

Step 4: Continue Installation

• Start second row with cut-off from first row (if 8"+ long) or cut a new starter piece
• Angle plank into previous row's groove, then click down flat
• Use tapping block to ensure joints are fully engaged
• Maintain spacers along walls as you progress
• Stagger joints at least 6-12 inches between rows

Step 5: Final Row

• Measure width needed (accounting for expansion gap)
• Rip planks to width using circular saw with fine-tooth blade
• Use pull bar to engage final row joints where tapping block won't fit
• Maintain expansion gap at ending wall

Step 6: Install Transitions and Trim

• Install transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other flooring
• Install baseboards to cover expansion gaps (nail to wall, not floor)
• Add quarter round or shoe molding if baseboards don't cover the gap

Real rooms have obstacles that require special techniques. Here's how to handle common challenges.

Door Frames and Jambs

Laminate should slide under door frames for a clean look:

1. Place a piece of laminate (on underlayment) next to the door frame
2. Mark the frame at flooring height
3. Use an oscillating multi-tool or handsaw to cut the jamb at your mark
4. Slide laminate under the cut jamb during installation

Pipes and Vents

For pipes coming through the floor:

1. Measure and mark pipe location on the plank
2. Drill a hole 1/2" larger than the pipe diameter (for expansion)
3. Cut a slit from the hole to the plank edge
4. Install the plank around the pipe
5. Glue the cut piece back (optional) and install pipe escutcheon

Large Rooms

For rooms exceeding 40 feet in any direction, expansion joints may be necessary. Consult manufacturer guidelines—many require transition strips at doorways and expansion breaks in very large installations.

Existing Flooring

Laminate can often install over existing flooring:

• Vinyl: Acceptable if well-adhered and flat; install underlayment over it
• Tile: Fill grout lines with leveling compound if deep; add underlayment
• Hardwood: Acceptable if flat and stable; may need underlayment
• Carpet: Remove carpet first—never install over carpet

Uneven Walls

Older homes often have walls that aren't straight. For the first row against an uneven wall:

1. Lay planks tight against the wall
2. Use a scribe tool or compass to trace the wall profile onto planks
3. Cut along the scribe line with a jigsaw
4. The cut edge will match wall contours while maintaining the expansion gap

Even careful installations encounter problems. Here's how to address common laminate issues.

Planks Won't Click Together

• Check for debris: Clean groove and tongue of any sawdust or debris
• Verify alignment: Plank may not be properly aligned with the row
• Inspect for damage: Damaged locking mechanisms won't engage; discard damaged planks
• Reduce angle: Some systems require a lower insertion angle

Gaps Between Planks

• Joints not fully engaged: Use tapping block to close joints
• Subfloor issues: Uneven subfloor prevents proper engagement
• Temperature changes: Gaps appearing after installation may indicate inadequate acclimation

Peaking at Joints

When plank edges lift at joints:

• Insufficient expansion gap: Verify 1/4" gap exists around entire perimeter
• Pinch points: Check for moldings, door frames, or cabinets pinning the floor
• Transition strips: Ensure transitions don't restrict movement

Squeaking or Hollow Sound

• Subfloor issues: Usually indicates uneven or loose subfloor
• Underlayment problems: Bunched or inadequate underlayment can cause noise
• Normal characteristic: Some hollow sound is normal for floating floors

Swelling or Buckling

Water damage is the most common cause:

• Identify and eliminate moisture source immediately
• Damaged planks must be replaced—they won't return to original shape
• Allow subfloor to dry completely before reinstalling
• Consider waterproof laminate or LVP for moisture-prone areas

For professional laminate installation with warranty protection, contact our Pensacola flooring team. Browse our laminate collection to find the perfect style for your home.